Going with the flow

Spring is the season of new beginnings —unless you’re a maple syrup farmer. In which case spring marks the end of maple syrup season.

During this time, Justin Williams is wrapping up collecting and processing the sap to create that sticky, silky, sweet-golden goodness pancakes would go extinct without.

“I do most of the work myself; as needed I will have other family members assist,” he says.

Justin is an 8th-generation farmer. His family began Wilhome Family Farms in the Prince Edward County region of Ontario, Canada, over 200 years ago.

Two centuries later, the farm has evolved, with every generation bringing new and innovative agricultural practices in response to industry, market, technology, and ecological forces. 

“We’ve certainly seen a huge number of changes,” says Bob Williams, Justin’s grandfather. “When I was a kid it was physical work,” whereas robotics, GPS, and more high-tech systems mechanize much of farm work today, he explains 

“It’s just mind-boggling,” says Bob of the changes he’s witnessed. As a child, Bob’s father used horses for farm work. Back then, the farm mainly grew canning-factory crops—picked by hand. Bob recalls his mom churning butter by hand too. The butter churn she used now holds umbrellas in the Williams’ farmhouse entryway—a daily reminder and connection to the farm’s generational through-line.

Dairy was the next iteration for the farm, as cannery factories slowed in the region over the decades that followed the Second World War.

The farm’s current manager is Don Williams, Justin’s dad. 

“I’m not sure any occupation can be as humbling as farming,” says Don. “You think you got it figured out… but you’re dealing with mother nature, and it just kicks you in the ass so quick, you don’t know what hit you sometimes…You just have to adapt to the situations,” he says.

Multi-generational farms are increasingly tough to come by. “Some of the younger generations—they just would rather not have that tie-down,” explains Don. Although new technologies make the job a little easier, 7-day work weeks, endless chores, and long days endure. “But, it’s a real way of life and that’s what it’s all about,” says Don. “You gotta’ have it in your heart and soul or you’re just not cut out to do it.”

In the family farm tradition, Justin’s maple syrup is a multi-generational effort: 

“My wife helps around the sugar house and selling product; my father-in-law will come to help cut and split wood used in the evaporator; my mother sells a lot of the product … my dad assists with loader work as required; my grandma helps with cleanup prior to open houses (pre-COVID),” explains Justin. 

The big open house for the region’s maple syrup producers was cancelled again this year, due to the pandemic. 

“During that weekend I would normally sell half of my production,” says Justin. But like each generation before him, Justin adapted to the challenge. “That caused me to have to change how I did business.” Justin moved his business online —with success. “2020 ended up being my best sales year ever; people want to support local,” he says.

With about 500 taps spanning 4 acres, Justin’s sugar bush isn’t the largest in the region, but it’s growing. In addition, Justin and his wife welcomed their daughter in 2020, which marks the beginning of the farm’s 9th generation.

So, while spring may be the end of maple syrup season, there are many new beginnings at the Wilhome Family Farm.